Charlie Boy Hopper
By Charlie Craven
Translated by Carl Wuebben
Charlie developed this pattern after a day with his clients as they went thru a lot of Dave’s hoppers and he figured there had to be a better option. While Dave’s fly works fine, it becomes waterlogged after a couple fish and is a pain to tie. The Charlie boy hopper (named after his son) meets all of the requirements in a hopper pattern: active rubber legs, incredible durability, realistic silhouette, good visibility, and great floatation. The best part is it is especially easy to tie. The standard tan color seems to be the most common color of the naturals, as well as in yellow, green, olive and even blue/green. The blue/green (with red rubber legs) matches the hoppers found in the mountain streams in Colorado. The Charlie boy hopper also works great as an indicator dry with a dropper. Its high visibility and superior floatation make it a natural for this application.
PATTERN
HOOK – Tiemco 100sp-bl #8 -#10 or TMC 5212 or TMC 5262 #4 - #8. He uses the 2XL TMC 5212 & 5262 for larger sized hoppers and has recently switched the smaller Charlie boy hoppers over to the standard length, wide gaped TMC 100sp-bl to improve the hook gap while still making a smaller sized hopper. The normal length of the size #8 100sp-bl is the same as the 5212 in a size #12, but with a much bigger hook gape. In smaller sizes the narrower gap of the 5212 is filled in by the foam body, where the 100sp-bl leaves plenty of bite.
THREAD – Tan 3/0 monocord (great for the binder strip)
BODY – 2mm X 2mm piece of foam body (tan or your choice of color)
LEGS – Brown medium round rubber legs
UNDERWING – (optional) mottled tan web wing
WING – Natural deer hair
OTHER THINGS NEEDED - ZAP-A-GAP and a double edge razor blade
HOW TO TIE
TIE UP A DOZEN OR TWO – AND GO FISHING*** But remember to practice C.P.R. (CATCH – PICTURE – RELEASE)
Trout Crack
By John Wilson
Translated by Carl Wuebben
Freshwater shrimp (AKA scuds) thrive in many types of water, limestone streams and spring creeks, etc. They provide trout with a year-round food source. Scuds are also an important food source in major tailwater rivers. For many years I read about fly fishers using orange colored patterns to imitate dead or spawning scuds. Whether a trout knows an orange scud represents an easy lifeless meal to pick off or that it contains a belly full of extra protein in the form of eggs is anyone’s guess. Both are workable theories. What we know is that trout see orange scuds on a regular basis, especially in specific locations. Scuds are killed when they flush through the dam turbines. They turn orange and their corpses float through the upper reaches of many tailwaters. Bring a small section of orange scuds with you next time you fish near a dam release or any scud kill zone. You may find yourself with a few additional trout to net. The methods of adding orange to scud patterns are endless. Some tyers use all orange, a hint of orange through the entire pattern, orange hot spots in specific locations, or an orange beadhead. The trout crack was created by John Wilson and is called “a guide-style fly”, which means it takes only a couple minutes to tie. Not pretty to look at, but very effective.
PATTERN
HOOK – Tiemco 2457, or similar sizes #14 to #20
THREAD – UTC clear Mono 0.004, optional 12/0 tan
BODY – Tan or olive Antron or Haretron dubbing
SHELL – The original used orange V-rib but can use tan or brown UTC vinyl rib (small) or liquid lace (midge size)
RIBBING – Clear Mono 0.004 or wire. Thread is optional (in tan)
HEAD – Orange thread – gives the impression of a dead or pregnant scud
HOW TO TIE
TIE UP A DOZEN OR TWO – AND GO FISHING*** But remember to practice C.P.R. (CATCH – PICTURE – RELEASE)
TF’s Hares Ear Clinger Nymph
By Ted Fauceglia
Translated by Carl Wuebben
There is some sporadic mayfly activity that needs to be addressed. Lesser members of the heptageniidae family of mayflies hatch throughout the summer and while the adults (light Cahill look- alikes) hatch sporadically, their hatches are sparse and have rarely induced more than an occasional “rise”. There are however, enough heptageniidae nymphs present to warrant a nymph pattern that has annually worked for me as a “searching “fly. Heptageniidae nymphs are known as clingers. Measuring from 12 to 16 millimeters long they have flattened bodies with broad, blunt heads and muscular, spiderlike legs. Their strong legs and three long tails enable them to freely navigate in fast water where they live and flourish. Their colors range from a light to dark mottled tannish red-brown. The hare’s ear nymph is a staple in my nymph collection and easily one of the most productive all-purpose go-to nymphs that I fish. But just in case the trout get a bit selective and fickle, alter the fly just a little and tie up a couple TF’s hares ear clinger nymphs.
PATTERN
HOOK - Tiemco 5262, sizes #12 to #16
THREAD - Camel 8/0 (70 denier) uni-thread
TAILS - Lemon wood duck Brest feather
ABDOMEN - A mixture that’s three parts #4 hareline hare’s ear plus dub and one part rusty brown wapsi SLF (synthetic living fiber) squirrel dubbing
WINGCASE - dark brown wild turkey quill
LEGS - Picked out dubbing on each side of the wing case
HEAD - Camel 8/0 (70 denier) uni thread
TIP - Treat the turkey feather with softtex or other feather treatment before you start tying and let it dry overnight
HOW TO TIE
TIE UP A DOZEN OR TWO – AND GO FISHING*** But remember to practice C.P.R. (CATCH – PICTURE – RELEASE)
Anorexic Zebra
By Aaron Jasper
Translated by CARL WUEBBEN
This fly is perfect for a dry fly – dropper style of fishing. Attach a large dry fly to the end of your leader, tie another length of tippet to the hook bend of the floating fly, then add an anorexic zebra or a nymph. Streams with high angling pressure are generally well suited for a dry – dropper technique. In many of these streams, the trout are very wary of people. Because of these factors successful anglers present fly’s from a distance. Suspending your fly under dry flies is the best way to do this and not spook the fish. When fishing with the correct leader system, dry flies and small flies or nymphs can increase your catch rates even under some surprisingly tough conditions. Dry – dropper combinations works especially well during mayfly and caddisfly hatches. Many nymphs and pupae are vulnerable near the surface, and trout frequently feed right under the surface. Also try tying the second fly to the eye of the dry fly for less drag and better floatation of the dry.
PATTERN
HOOK – Tiemco TMC 2487, size 18 or 16
HEAD – Black tungsten, matched to hook size
THREAD – Black 8/0 (70 denier)
BODY – Tying thread
RIB – Hot orange copper wire
HOW TO TIE
TIE UP A DOZEN OR TWO – AND GO FISHING*** But remember to practice C.P.R. (CATCH – PICTURE – RELEASE)
Mini Sulphur Hi-Vis Comparadun
By Ted Fauceglia
Translated by CARL WUEBBEN
For the seasoned fly fisher, preparing to meet most mayfly hatches is a relatively easy task – it’s simply a matter of reviewing last year’s log and correcting any problems associated with the previous year’s hatch. If there are none, it’s no big deal; just restock your supply of your best patterns. For fly fishers without a backlog of knowledge, it’s a little more complicated. Tying a selection of patterns for any hatch obviously requires us to choose the correct size and colors for each pattern, but it’s equally important to choose the right style of pattern that suits a particular hatch. Where on the water the hatch happens also has a direct influence on the style of pattern selected. If duns emerge in fast – flowing riffles, you’d imitate them with buoyant, hackled, high-floating patterns that remain high on the water whereas, if the duns surface in calm water or side pools, a more realistic, flush-floating pattern is appropriate because the trout will get an up close view as it drifts downstream. In addition to where the hatch occurs, the timing of the hatch raises further concerns (time of year). I have found that the simpler the pattern I use, the better. I’m a big fan of parachute patterns, but parachutes don’t lend themselves well to small dun patterns (sizes 18 and smaller). The materials overcrowd the pattern, and there simply isn’t enough definition to my satisfaction. I prefer the Comparadun style for my mini-sulphur imitations, besides matching the size and color of the natural; Comparaduns match a naturals profile and duplicate a naturals imprint on the water, which is crucial in low water conditions. As an added bonus Comparaduns are easy to tie.
PATTERN
HOOK – Tiemco 100 BL, size 18 to 20
THREAD – Light Cahill 8/0 Uni-thread (70 denier)
WING- Sulphur Hi-Vis Antron
TAIL – Stiff cream colored hackle barbs
BODY – Pale morning dun Orvis Spectrablend dry fly dubbing or ?
HEAD – Light Cahill 8/0 Uni-thread (color it red with a Copic marker or other permanent marker)
HOW TO TIE
TIE UP A DOZEN OR TWO – AND GO FISHING*** But remember to practice C.P.R. (CATCH – PICTURE – RELEASE)
Nosepicker Blue Winged Olive
By Kevin Price
Translated by CARL WUEBBEN
When it comes to flies that imitate small Mayfly nymphs, many fly tiers routinely turn to the trusty pheasant tail nymph and its’ derivatives. It’s a fly that is easy to tie and tends to get the job done. It’s such an effective mayfly nymph imitation that creative fly dressers are hard pressed to arrive at anything better. The challenge was to find a fly that lasted more than two or three fish. That’s the one problem with the P.T. nymph: it is made from inherently brittle materials- namely peacock herl and pheasant tail fibers. The answer is a pattern dubbed the Nosepicker, designed to be a true guide’s fly: a fly that not only fools trout, but also stands up to a beating. Moreover, the pattern is easy to tie. Its’ colors and size are easily adapted to match a variety of mayflies. Depending on the bead color, thread, hook size and wire, the Nosepicker can imitate Blue-winged Olives, Pale Morning Duns, Green Drakes, and March Browns. Emu herl is used for the tail and legs because not only does it look buggy and lifelike, and holds its shape in the water, but it’s also amazingly durable. A small strip of pearl flashabou run through a piece of hollow ultra-lace tubing adds just the right amount of flash and creates a nice bulletproof wing case that resembles epoxy, but without the mess of working with epoxy, and it remains intact for the life of the fly. The wire thorax, virtually indestructible, allows for a consistent-sized upper body while also enabling the fly to sink fast. The Nosepicker is as tough as they come. You’ll lose it to a big tippet-busting trout before it’ll fall apart.
PATTERN
HOOK - TMC 2488 heavy, sizes #16-#20
HEAD - Gold bead, matched to hook size
THREAD – Olive-Dun UNI thread, size 8/0
TAIL – Olive Emu
RIB – Small olive Ultra wire
SHUCK – Olive CDC
WING CASE – Tan Ultra lace tubing with a strand of pearl Flashabou inside
ABDOMEN – Brassie-size black Uni-wire
LEGS – Olive Emu
NOTE – photo is a pale mourning dun colors but pattern is the same
HOW TO TIE
TIE UP A DOZEN OR TWO – AND GO FISHING*** But remember to practice C.P.R. (CATCH – PICTURE – RELEASE)