FOTM June 2012
Double Bunny

BY Scott Sanchez

This is called an attractor streamer which has a long history both as imitations of tiny fishes and as nonimitative attractor flies. Though it’s quite minnow - like, the double bunny is primarily an attractor.  It doesn’t really matter – big trout move for this fly.  Try stripping it wildly across a river to stir a trout into doing something stupid.  Also try olive over white and olive over yellow for the wing

HOOK -   Heavy wire, 4x long, size #2 (I used Mustad #9672 or R74)
THREAD -   White 3/0 or heavier
WEIGHT - lead wire 0.035 – inch diameter
BODY AND WING – Magnum (extra – wide) natural gray zonker strip bound atop the shank at the eye and a magnum white zonker strip pushed over thee hooks point and bound below the eye. Cement the strips together around the shank and lead and beyond the bend.
SIDES - A few strands of pearl Krystal flash and silver holographic flashabou
EYES - Red plastic molded eyes with black pupils, 7/32 – inch (7mm) in diameter. (Can use doll eyes – mono eyes –stick on – etc.)                 

How to Tie

  1. Debarb hook- mount in vise – Put about 20 wraps of lead on the hook shank and center it on the shank then start your thread behind the eye and bind the lead on by wrapping loosely over it front to back and putting a small tapered dam of thread in front and back of the lead.
  2. Cut the grey zonker strip about two shank lengths long.
  3. Now cut a white zonker the same size as the grey but put a slot in where it meets the hook shank in the back side and put the zonker on over the hook point and move to the lower side of the shank (skin side toward hook shank). Put glue on zonker skin side and push up against the hook shank. Then tie off in front of eyelet with a few wraps only.
  4. Tie in the grey zonker on top of shank then put glue on the skin side and push down onto the top of the hook shank and on down and onto the white zonker (skin side to skin side) pushing the zonkers down on each side also to make a fuller body. Build a tapered thread head.
  5. Tie in two strands of silver holographic flashabou and two strands of pearl Krystal flash – double over the flash so you have four of the flash and two of the flashabou on each side of the fly keeping it centered on the side of the fly.
  6. Now glue the eyes on each side right between the thread head and the zonkers – let it dry then put some sally Hansen’s on it or UV glue to form a nice head and secure the eyes better. Trim the flash and flashabou and you’re done.

**This is a very nice pattern and very easy to make. You can also try making it in smaller or even larger hooks. Go tie up a bunch and save your best for the fly of the month contest at the next meeting.

TI P = Pull the eraser off a pencil and put it on the hook point to keep from getting poked by the point.

NOTE = If the zonker strips are not thick enough to cover the sides also - you can use white rabbit dubbing to cover the lead and hook shank. Then put the zonkers on the top and bottom.


FOTM May 2012
(Bucktail Emerger)


by Paul Weamer from Fly Fisherman Magazine

Don’t you love the look and fish-catching ability of quill bodied dry flies but hate all the preparation and the results often produce brittle flies that can unravel when they are exposed to a large trout’s sharp teeth. Then here’s your answer to all that quill preparation. Use bucktail instead, it’s more durable and you can mix colors along with thread. To get the right color for your pattern it’s pretty cheap and one tail lasts a long time. You can put some floatant in the wing or don’t put any in at all and as soon as the fly soaks up some water it goes down into the water so you can fish it as an emerger rising to the surface as opposed to an emerger sitting on top of the waters film waiting to dry its wings and fly away. Next time you’re on a massive hatch but you can’t get them on a dry use an emerger pattern like this and you may  have that twenty or thirty fish a day you dream about all the time.

Hook- #12-14 Tiemco 247 (fine-wire scud hook)
Thread- Light olive 8/0 uni- thread
Shuck- dark brown darlon (Antron or z-lon also work)
Abdomen- four pink and two tan bucktail fibers twisted with light olive thread.
Thorax- Hendrickson pink beaver dubbing.
Wing- A clump of snowshoe rabbit’s foot hair.

*Note- For the wing I used natural rabbit that had a lot of white and I mixed it with sulphur orange super fine to get the dirty white/yellowish color (pale yellow)

How to Tie

  1. Debarb hook and mount in vise- start thread about three to four eyelets from the eye and lay down a tight thread base going back just a little bit into the curve of the hook, now tie on your suck ¾  the length of the hook shank but leaving a longer strand to tie down as the underbody keeping close wraps and ending where you started your thread then back to the rear of the hook.
  2. Tie in four pink and two tan bucktail fibers and align them by their tips. Clip the fine ends making them the same length and diameter. Tie in at the rear of the abdomen and with the bucktail laying down on top of the body  wrap forward to your wing location then back again with close wraps in order to get a smooth abdomen.
  3. Twist the bucktail fibers with the thread to make a rope then wrap forward to your wing location and tie off.
  4. Cut a clump of snowshoe rabbit from between the toes. Remove the underfur and tie in the wing so that the tips extend toward the hook Bend approximately three quarters the length of the hook shank. Trim the tag ends and bind down the remaining butts.
  5. Dub behind and in front of the wing. Whip-finish and clip your thread and you’re done.

VERY EASY TIE   Now tie up a couple dozen but save your best for the fly of the month for may any questions call or e-mail carl wuebben



Fly Fishing & Tying Journal

This pattern is meant to be fished in the surface film or just below it, trailing behind an adult caddis pattern. This pattern can also be used to imitate a sunken egg-laying female.

HOOK - Mustad = R50-94840 or equivalent in sizes 16-18
THREAD – Chartreuse 6/0 and dark brown 8/0
TAIL - Tan Anton yarn fibers
– Chartreuse thread
OVERBODY- green or chartreuse super hair
WING – Dark dun or black CDC feather barbs

How to Tie

  1. Debarb hook- mount in vise. Start thread at mid shank and then tie in a sparse bundle of Anton and one strand of super hair at the rear of the hook shank.
  2. Using the thread form a tapered underbody over the rear ¾ of the hook shank then wrap the super hair strand over the underbody keeping each wrap against the previous one. Tie off and clip the tag end also tie off the underbody thread and clip off.
  3. Tie in the brown thread right in front of the chartreuse thread underbody and form a small head then coat the body and thread wraps with head cement and let it dry
  4. Strip the barbs from 1 – 3 CDC feathers and tie in with the brown thread to form the wing making sure it extends just a little bit past the hook bend securing them on top then lift the butt ends and put two or three wraps at the base of the CDC to push them up a little. Whip-Finish and clip the thread.
  5. Trim the butt ends even with the front of the eye and the wing even with the hook bend.

**Now that was an easy tie, you can substitute other things for the overbody like supreme hair – fluoro fibre – kinky fibre and for the tail try sparkle yarn. Now don’t forget to tie up a very nice one for the next meetings fly of the month.



Hare's Ear Wet
By Skip Morris

Also known as the Gold-Ribbed Hare’s Ear Wet, the companion to the ever popular Gold-Ribbed Hare’s Ear Nymph. This wet fly can imitate Mayfly or Caddisfly adults that have drowned or are swimming down to lay their eggs.

Hook- Heavy wire, standard length.

  • Mustad= R70, R90, 540
  • Tiemco= 760sp, 3769, 9300

or 1x long

  • Mustad=39068
  • Tiemco=3761

In sizes 16-12

Thread- Orange or black 6/0 or 8/0
Tail- Brown hackle fibers
Rib- Gold oval or narrow flat tinsel.
Body- Hare’s mask (or pre-packaged dubbing), heavier and picked out around the thorax area.
Wing- Natural gray duck quill sections (or hen pheasant wing quill sections)

How to Tie

  1. Debarb hook- place in vice- start thread at about the halfway mark on the shank.
  2. Tie in the tail about ¾ to a full hook length off from the bend of the hook.
  3. Tie in the ribbing.
  4. Dub a body with the rabbit fur (thin on the back and fatter in the thorax area). Reverse wind the ribbing forward- tie off and clip the tag end.
  5. Using your bodkin or dental floss brush fluff out the thorax area only (front half of body)
  6. Make a small thread head (cone shape) fat in the back and tapered to the hook eye.
  7. Grab a pair of matched natural gray duck quills and clip out a piece (from the longer barbs side) the width of your thorax. Match the sections with the concave sides facing inward so they line up perfectly. Size up the wings with your right hand- the tips should be up with the hook  bend, then hold the tips with your left hand and the butts with your right. Then hump the wing set slightly by stroking the tips downward. This gives you the desired shape and counteracts the effect the thread will have during tie on. Transfer to your left hand and reestablish the length, using the soft loop or pinch hold (pushing the wings into the thread base) Put thread between  your thumb and forefinger then over the back side of the fly then under and back up to capture the wings on the top side slightly to the side of the fly. After a couple more wraps check wings again, if okay, do a few more wraps while always holding the wings if it is not right unwrap and try again. Once okay, build a cone shape head, whip-finish, clip the thread, and you’re done.

Tip- Wings are done the same way as the October 2011 Fly of the Month, The Leadwing Coachman.
That was not a very hard fly to tie was it? So go tie up a couple dozen but save your best one for the fly of the month contest and bring the rest in so Shawn can sell them to other club members.

Carl Wuebben

FOTM Mar 2012


By Andrew Puls - Fly Tier magazine

Midge sippers are usually taking emergers which are imitated perfectly by the hacklestacker midge’s curved shank hook piercing the water’s surface. The hackle ball lets the body ride below the surface and is still relatively easy to see. Additionally trout can often be tricked into eating a hacklestacker midge that is considerably larger than the hatching insects; this is a huge benefit when the real bugs are an impossibly small size 26 or 24.Try tying one using golden pheasant for a tail and turkey biot’s for the abdomen also peacock superfine for the thorax the hook and hackle are the same – this one is called a biot hacklestacker.

HOOK   Mustad = C49S  Tiemco = #2487 or equivalent in sizes 20 to 16.
THREAD- black 8/0 (70 denier).
ABDOMEN- Black tying thread 8/0.
RIB – Fine silver wire.
HACKLE POST- 4X monofilament tippet. (doubled to form a loop).
Grizzly roster neck.
– Black dry fly dubbing. (I used super fine).


How to Tie

  1. Debarb hook- mount in vise. Start thread at front of hook shank one eyelet from eye.
  2. Tie in wire and using your thread tie it in halfway into the hook bend keeping the wire on the bottom of the hook and nice close wraps of thread (no gaps).
  3. Wrap thread forward to about halfway on the hook shank then spiral wrap the wire forward to the halfway mark also and tie off the wire and get rid of the tag end.
  4. To make the hackle stack cut a hunk of 4x tippet material about 6 or 7 inches long (16 to 18cm) double it over (tip to tip) to make a loop and tie it in about 2 eyelets from the eye then on top of the shank with your thread wrap it in good and tight to about the halfway point on the hook shank- clip off the tag end of the tippet.
  5. Grab a grizzly feather with the barbs about the size of the hook’s gap or one and a half the gap, it’s your choice. Strip the fibers off the butt end leaving the shaft bare about 1/4inch then tie in with the butt facing the eyelet.
  6. Using one of your fingers, put it in the loop and hold it up tight then using both fingers and thumbs from both hands wrap the hackle up the loop then down. Tie off hackle- you should have enough wraps to push them down on the loop shank then pull the hackle fibers backward to get them all facing toward the hook bend- measure if you have enough by pulling the loop forward to just in front of the eyelet. If there’s enough go ahead and dub in the thorax with the superfine then bring the loop over the thorax and tie in behind the eyelet. (Don’t crowd the head). Clip off the loop tag end, build a small head, whip-finish and you’re done.

**Sounds time consuming but it’s not. Tie up about two or three then it’s a very easy tie. Go tie up about three dozen in about an hour but save your best for the next meeting.







Ted Leeson and Jim Schollmeyer’s parasol series is not so much a new concept as a new angle on a seldom explored concept – A nymph or emerger hanging from a built – in pontoon. Their puff of yarn on a strand of tippet is quick - simple, and functional. The idea is to suggest a nymph, ripe to hatch, just short of reaching the water’s surface. Try tying a parasol onto other nymph patters also like a pmd or bwo and maybe a hare’s ear.  

Hook- Light wire, Standard length or 1x long. Sizes 18 to14.
Thread- brown 8/0 or 6/0.
PARASOL- Light gray poly yarn tied with a clinch knot to 4x tippet.
TAIL- 4 pheasant tail fiber tips.
RIB- Fine copper (or gold) wire.
ABDOMEN- Pheasant tail fibers.
THORAX- Peacock herl.
LEGS – Mottled brown hen back hackle fibers (regular brown hen will do also) or pheasant tail fibers.
Comments – This flexible emerger imitates a number of mayfly nymphs when it’s tied in different sizes


** Using the 4x tippet and the poly yarn.

  1. Cut 2 lengths of 1 to 2 inches of poly yarn.
  2. With the tippet tie an improved clinch knot tightly around the center of the poly yarn sections. Trim off the tag end of the tippet.
  3. Comb out the ends of the yarn with your hair comb you use for combing out the fuzz on deer hair. Do not cut the yarn yet we will do it at the very last step.


  1. Debarb the hook and place in vice.
  2. Start your thread and bind on the tippet about 2/3 up the shank leaving about a ¼ inch between the hook shank and the yarn ( depending on hook size ) keeping the parasol on top of the hook shank. Clip off tag of tippet and wrap to the end of shank.
  3. Tie in some pheasant tail fibers (about 4) ½ to 2/3 the hook length at the rear of the hook shank.
  4. Tie in a piece of fine copper wire at the rear of the hook shank and set aside in your material clip.
  5. Tie in about ten strands ( less for smaller hooks ) of longer pheasant tail fibers at the rear of the hook shank ( by the tips).Wrap pheasant tail around thread clockwise to make a rope Then wrap forward to right behind the parasol tippet. Tie off and clip off tag ends.
  6. Counter wrap wire forward to the tippet parasol – tie off and clip tag end.
  7. Using your thread - put a couple wraps right in front of the tippet parasol to keep it straight up.
  8.  Tie in about 3 or 4 strands of peacock herl right in front of the parasol then wrap the peacock around the thread clockwise to make a rope – put one or two wraps behind the tippet parasol then wrap in front of the parasol a couple times to make the thorax. Tie off and clip the tag ends.
  9. Grab a hen feather with the barbs about the size of the thorax you made – pluck off the fuzz on the bottom - then pull off the barbs on one side of the feather leaving the other side on. Now on that same side pull just a small section of barbs toward the top of the feather off so you can use as a tie in point on the feather just a couple barbs will do. Now tie the feather in by the tip side where you last pulled a few barbs off – Then clip your tag end off and try and keep your barbs facing up away from the shank – then wrap it around 2 or 3 times to make the legs – tie off – clip tag ends –make a small thread head then whip-finish-, cut the thread and your almost done.
  10. Comb out the parasol one more time to try and mix the strands together better (it will not be perfect). Gather the ends of the yarn and pull them firmly up. Cut them straight across. The result should be a dense puff of yarn, rounded on the top, suspended above the fly by a little bit of tippet.

*Now that was easy – Tie up a couple dozen but save your best one for the FLY OF THE MONTH CONTEST we have at each meeting. The winner gets their picture in the newsletter along with their fly. And don’t forget at the end of the year we have an award for FLY TYER OF THE YEAR.

 CARL WUEBBEN   >)))))))(‘>