When you think of the mole fly, you can’t help but remember the adage that you can’t judge a book by its cover, an inarguably simple pattern; the mole fly doesn’t sell itself or strike a sense of confidence in most onlookers. But if you were limited to one fly to cast to trout rising to baetis or midges, the mole fly would get an immediate nod. The success of the mole fly is how it sits in the water, with the hook eye parallel to the surface and the purpose-built, sodden beaver fur hanging in the film with the CDC wing perched atop. With the fly in this position it exposes it as a crippled emerger and fish know that these bugs are trapped and therefore easy prey. After catching a few fish the CDC starts losing its floatation and to help keep it afloat try using a light coating of TIEMCO DRY MAGIC (a thin gel-type floatant) that won’t mat down the delicate fibers. But dry it out first with a cloth called WONDER CLOTH DRY FLY PATCH Umpqua feather merchants markets a kit with both products called the magic patch. Most commercial fly floatants are not compatible with CDC flies.


HOOK - #16 – 24 TIEMCO 2487

How to Tie

  1. Debarb hook- mount hook in vise- start thread behind hook eye, and form a short thread base back toward the bend of the hook and stop at about where the hook point is or about ¾ down the shank of the hook.
  2. Select a thick CDC feather with a thin stem. Pinch the tip of the feather down into a clump and tie it to the shank just behind the eye with a couple of tight thread wraps. Hold the thread taut while you pull the end of the feather (the butt section) back to shorten the wing to about shank length long.
  3. Anchor the wing with a few more tight wraps of thread. With the tip of your scissors trim the feather butts at an angle.
  4. Wrap thread over the tapered feather butts and well into the hook bend. Bring your thread forward halfway up the shank.
  5. Dub a thin strand of beaver fur onto the thread, leaving a bit of bare thread between the top of the dubbing strand and the hook. Use the bare thread to work back to the end of the thread base, making the first turn of dubbing about halfway down the hook bend. Wrap forward to the base of the wing, forming a slight taper. The tapered butts of the CDC wing help build the correct body shape.
  6. Use tour thumb and fore finger to pull back the wing, and then bring the thread to the front of the wing just behind the hook eye. Hold the wing out of the way while you whip-finish the thread at the eye. Clip the thread.
  7. Use a dubbing brush to rough up the beaver fur body. By fluffing it up like this it will allow it to quickly get wet and sink the back of the fly.

Fishing Tip Cast up and across to a feeding fish and pull the fly under with a short strip – or lift of the rod tip – just before it reaches the target. The buoyant CDC pops the fly back up to the surface and it seems that any fish that witnesses this upward movement in immediately convinced, and crushes the fly.

Bi-Plane Streamer in 3D


By Chief Needabeh and Nathan Perkinson

A critical eye will discern one major flaw in the design of standard major flaw in the design of standard streamers. Although designed to imitate baitfish, standard streamers are tied flat, in two dimensions. A streamer with saddle-hackle wings looks great from either side, where its height and length come into play, observe the same streamer from below, the angle at which many fish will see your fly and it suddenly becomes a narrow body of wool, silk or tinsel. Those long, flowing wings all but disappear and your brilliant bait fish imitation begins to resemble a swimming candy cane. Many anglers have developed flies that are tied in three dimensions so that fish are presented with an appetizing offering whether it’s these “3D” streamers feature feather wings that are tied flat atop the hook, rather than upright in the typical style, although these streamers have largely been forgotten as historical oddities, they are in fact effective flies that you can use to catch trout, salmon and bass today. 3D streamers were developed to address tough fishing conditions. They are an alternative to the ordinary; simply a representation of the eternal tinkering that defines us as anglers and fly tiers. Chief Needabeh called this fly a bi-plane because the wings are attached in a perpendicular plane to the bend of the hook. You can tie the wing to the body to prevent fouling and maintain the fly’s shape in the water.


HOOK - long streamer, sizes 2 to 10
RIB - Flat silver tinsel
BODY- black wool
UNDERWING- Red buck tail
WING - six white and one brown saddle hackle, tied flat
SIDES - peacock herl
HACKLE – red, tied full

How to Tie

  1. Debarb hook- mount hook in vise- select six white saddle hackles and one brown. Strip hackles to a length slightly longer than the hook (one and half the gap past bend of the hook), stack the feathers with the brown one on top and secure with a drop of head cement near the bare hackle stems. Set the wing aside to dry.
  2. Start your thread about mid shank wrap backward about three quarters of the hook shank then tie in your silver tinsel ribbing. And dub the wool to make a straight (not tapered) body ending just about an eyelet from the eye (don’t crowd the head) wrap the tinsel forward for the ribbing and tie off and clip the tag ends off.
  3. Level the head with several wraps of thread to ensure the wing lies flat then tie in several strands of red bucktail as an underwing. (about one gap length past the bend of the hook)
  4. Lay the wing assembly flat on top of the fly and secure with a few loose wraps just behind the head and in front of the body (a gap and a half past the bend of the hook). When you get the wing in position bind it down with several firm wraps, clip the hackle stems and add a drop of head cement.
  5. Tie in a pair of peacock herls just behind the head and in front of the body on each side of the streamer (two gap lengths past the bend of the hook).
  6. Tie in one red hackle just behind the head and in front of the body and wind a full collar. Build a neat tapered head, whip finish and cement.



Dark Cahill
Dan Cahill

The Cahill to me, Dark or light represents the ideal of the traditional dry fly. Their soft, muskrat or badger fur bodies, the subtle contrast of their hackles and tails against those bodies, and their gracefully curved, finely marked wood duck wings all tell of elegance. These characteristics also make the Cahill’s a fine choice for imitating mayflies from dark to light, and for imitating other insects. The light and dark Cahill were created on the east coast by Dan Cahill, but are now in use across America.


HOOK - Mustad #R50-94840 – Tiemco #100 or any standard dry fly sizes #20-10

THREAD - Tan, brown, or black 8/0 or 6/0 WINGS- Wood duck or dyed mallard TAIL – Brown hackle fibers.
BODY – Muskrat fur
HACKLE – Brown.

** For Light Cahill change the thread to tan or cream – tail is ginger hackle fibers – body is cream badger under fur and hackle is ginger. All the rest is the same.

How to Tie

  1. Debarb hook and place in the vice. Start thread at the front of the hook about two eyelets from the eye and lay down a thread base about three eyelets from the eye.
  2. Strip the fuzz from the base of a wood duck feather, and then strip a section from each side of the feather. Set the sections back to back, measure them against the hook (It should be at least as wide as the hooks gape, even as wide as the hook shank is long) and tie them in about three quarters up the shank, trim the butts at an angle near the end of the hook shank and bind them down with thread wraps.
  3. Strip some hackle fibers for the tail, measure them against the hook shank (shank length) – trim butts at an angle and bind them down with thread wraps.
  4. Snip some muskrat from the hide, pull it apart and mix it together to fluff it up and with it dub a tapered body to just in front of your wood duck.
  5. Pull the wood duck wing up and lay a couple thread wraps in front of it to hold it upright. Divide the wing in half using a bodkin or your scissors then using a fig- ure eight wrap bind down the wing. Then with the thread and using loose thread turns and starting at the bottom of one of the wings and going up from the base then as you go back down with tighter wraps to post one side of the wings then repeat for the other side.
  6. Size (fibers about shank length ), prepare (strip fuzz out), and tie in two hackles behind the wing and wrap- ping one at a time forward to just behind the eye. Se- cure each one with a couple thread wraps, build a thread head, whip finish and you’re done.

This is a fun one to tie up!




Beetles belong to the order of insects known as coleoptera, which includes both the aquatic and terrestrial genera. Both genera are on the trout’s menu, but the terrestrial adults are far more significant simply because they’re much more numerous. Some terrestrial adults have elongated bodies with a noticeable separation between their thorax and abdomen, while others have integrated, olive shaped bodies. They range in sizes from 4 to 20 millimeters and sport a variety of colors but most are either dark brown or shiny black. By sheer happenstance, beetles stray into trout streams. Trapped within the surface film, there’s no escape, and the trout seem to know it. Soft rise forms under overhanging tree limbs or along the grassy edge of a stream with no visible insects in sight are a sure sign the trout are after a terrestrial insect. Usually a beetle. This calls for a flush-floating imitation attached to a long section of 6x or 7x tippet and presented with a tuck cast that duplicates the noisy “plop” of a beetle hitting the water.

HOOK - TMC 2302, (can use TMC 200R or MUSTAD C53S - Down eye works best)
THREAD - Black, 6/0
WING CASE - 2mm Black Foam (cut to shape)
BODY - Hareline olive brown ice dub. (I used SLF squirrel dubbing)
LEGS - Larva lace amber super floss.
INDICATOR - Small cut of 2mm foam yellow
EYES - Small black mono eyes (optional on smaller sizes)
HEAD - Wing case extension (cut to shape)

How to Tie

  1.     Debarb hook and mount hook in vice. Start thread about mid shank and lay a thread base to just a little bit into the hook bend. Put some zap-a-gap on the base and while it’s drying get your black foam and cut a strip about a little bigger than the hook gap then cut the end to a point. Now tie it in with the pointed part facing forward then put some zap-a-gap on it to help keep it stable.
  2.     Bring the thread forward to about a little bit more than halfway on the shank and tie in the mono eyes with a crisscross then figure eight wraps add some zap-a-gap. Then wrap thread back to the foam body. (eyes on top of shank)
  3.     Tie in the rear legs about halfway between the foam body and the eyes. Then bring your thread back to the foam body and dub the abdomen up to the eyes.
  4.     Bring the foam body up and over the top of the abdomen and give it a gentle pull and tie down just behind the eyes. Now tie in the yellow indicator on top and your front legs on each side.
  5.     Dub a little between the eyes and then bring your body foam over the top of the eyes and tie down just in front of the eyes.
  6.     Dub a little more then tie down the foam just in front of the eyelet.(don’t crowd the eye) Clip the foam tag end and whip finish. Clip your legs to length and you’re done.

**A fast and easy tie. Now tie up a couple and throw them near the trees and bushes in the water of course but save your best for the next meeting along with how well it fished for you.




Yes you read it right the old fart, It’s a cousin of the original pattern Blair’s emerger. It’s like a nymph/emerger pattern the white closed-cell foam acts like an air bubble or wing case fish it deep, using split shot and a strike indicator. Remember if you are not getting any strikes and you’re not hooking the bottom of the stream you are probably not deep enough.

HOOK - Daiichi #1150 (has the eye up) or I used Mustad C495 or TMC 2488 (has the eye straight) or a similar scud hook, sizes #20-#14
THREAD - Pink 8/0 (70 Denier) or 40 (140 Denier) depending upon the size of the fly.
WING CASE - 1mm white closed-cell foam
BODY - Adams gray super fine dubbing. I used dark gray fly rite (it matched the pattern better)

How to Tie

  1. Debarb hook and place in the vice. Start thread at the front of the hook about two eyelets from the eye and lay down a thread base about half way down the hook shank.
  2. Cut a foam strip wide enough so that it will cover the upper half of the thread base when folded into position. Tie the foam securely over the thread base on top at the mid shank point of the hook and the tag end facing the hook bend and working forward. Then clip off as much of the tag end as you can. And cover it with thread. Remember to not crowd the head. One eyelet from the eye is good.  You will need the space for dubbing.
  3. Bring your thread back then fold the foam back and lean the foam toward you as you tie it down. This will move to the top and you will have foam on each side of the shank. Clip off the excess foam tag. Cover the tag end with thread wraps. Don’t leave any white tag ends showing. It seems to bleed through the dubbing.
  4. Wrap a smooth underbody. It should extend halfway into the hook bend and tapered with the thick side up against the thorax. End your thread underbody up against the foam.
  5. Dub the super fine starting at the rear of the thorax foam then make one or two crossing wraps (figure eight) under the thorax area of the hook. Try and guess how much dubbing you will need so you end the dubbing at the hook bend (I used about one inch for a #18 hook) Remember it’s easier to add more dubbing than it is to remove some. Continue wrapping the dubbing down the hook to create the body of the fly. You should run out of dubbing just as you reach the end of the under body thread.
  6. Loosely spiral-wrap the bare thread forward to create the rib. Whip-finish and clip the thread and you’re done.

A VERY SIMPLE TIE. Also try using other super fine colors like caddis green- mahogany brown- rusty brown- pale yellow- BWO just change the thread to a slight contrasting color and the rest of the pattern is the same. You can tie up three dozen in less than one hour.




Since Lee Baermann will be our speaker for this month I thought we should tie up a salt water fly that is easy to alter to suit just about any fishing scenario in which you don’t want the fly to get hung up. So unbind yourself from traditional hooks and designs, and you will find new ways to be creative with your tying.

HOOK - 1/0-2/0 or 3/0 - extra – wide – gap or standard worm hook. Bass Pro #033548004636 2/0, Gamakatsu #58411-25 1/0, Mustad #38105bln 2/0
THREAD - White 6/0 or 8/0 or color to match your pattern tied.
SHAFT - 80 pound hard monofilament (I used Hard Mason brand).
TAIL – White marabou.
FLASH- Pearl halo flash. (I used flashabou mirage opal).
EYES - 3-D or 2-D holographic eyes or flat stick on eyes, which are considerably lighter in weight.
 BODY – Pearl crystal chenille or estaz opalescent white,
ADHESIVES - Zap-a-gap, plus Zap-a-gap gel or aquaseal.

How to Tie

  1. Debarb hook and put to the side (This will help the marabou tail pass through freely). Place a short piece of the hard mason monofilament into the vice. (About the size of the hook – you will trim later). Tie in thread about one-eighth inch starting at the vise and moving forward just as thought the monofilament were the shank of a hook. Cover the thread base with Zap-a-gap.
  2. Tie in the marabou and holo flash on the top, bottom and sides of the strand of mono.The length and the amount will depend on the size of the baitfish you want the fly to imitate. A little bit of Zap-a-gap will keep it from moving around.
  3. Tie in a short piece of crystal chenille onto the mono, and wind the thread forward to the position where the mono will be tied to the hook. Before you start winding the chenille forward, measure the distance between the point of the hook and the beginning of the flat forward surface where you will start tying the mono to the hook (The length of the body) Mark the mono with a pen so you have a reference point. Wind the chenille forward, and tie off at the point where you stopped the forward thread wraps, at that spot, Put in a couple of half hitches to keep the material in place. Leave the tag end of the chenille for finishing the fly.
  4. Remove the mono body from the vice and use some cutting pliers to remove the section of mono that was held by the vise. Immediately in front of the chenille, Flatten the hard mono with a smooth surface flat pliers so it will make it easier to tie onto the hook. Put the hook into the vise (Upside down) and make a few wraps over the mono and onto the hook just behind the eye of the hook, positioning the fly so that the tail passes freely through the hook point. You may need to trim the front flat part of the mono to help it fit better over the hook point. Then put some additional wraps of thread onto the mono and hook to really hold it down. Now put some Zap-a-gap onto the thread wraps to hold the mono better onto the hook. Use thin thread since more wraps of thin thread are stronger than a few of heavier thread. Wrap the remaining chenille forward to behind the eye and tie off and whip finish.
  5. Clip a little bit of chenille out where you will put the eyes in, put some Zap-a-gap gel or aquaseal to fix the eyes to the chenille, and you’re done.   

**Quite a unique fly and you can change the colors to suit your baitfish pattern of your choice. Get creative. Can also be used as a freshwater fly. Another option is to use a hackle feather on the body to slow down the sink rate or to keep it from sinking you can add foam to the mono to make it float. Go tie up a bunch and save your best for the fly of the month contest at the next meeting.

TIP  Pull the eraser off a pencil and put it on the hook point to keep from getting poked by the point.