The Cahill to me, Dark or light represents the ideal of the traditional dry fly. Their soft, muskrat or badger fur bodies, the subtle contrast of their hackles and tails against those bodies, and their gracefully curved, finely marked wood duck wings all tell of elegance. These characteristics also make the Cahill’s a fine choice for imitating mayflies from dark to light, and for imitating other insects. The light and dark Cahill were created on the east coast by Dan Cahill, but are now in use across America.
HOOK - Mustad #R50-94840 – Tiemco #100 or any standard dry fly sizes #20-10
THREAD - Tan, brown, or black 8/0 or 6/0 WINGS- Wood duck or dyed mallard TAIL – Brown hackle fibers.
BODY – Muskrat fur
HACKLE – Brown.
** For Light Cahill change the thread to tan or cream – tail is ginger hackle fibers – body is cream badger under fur and hackle is ginger. All the rest is the same.
How to Tie
This is a fun one to tie up!
Yes you read it right the old fart, It’s a cousin of the original pattern Blair’s emerger. It’s like a nymph/emerger pattern the white closed-cell foam acts like an air bubble or wing case fish it deep, using split shot and a strike indicator. Remember if you are not getting any strikes and you’re not hooking the bottom of the stream you are probably not deep enough.
HOOK - Daiichi #1150 (has the eye up) or I used Mustad C495 or TMC 2488 (has the eye straight) or a similar scud hook, sizes #20-#14
THREAD - Pink 8/0 (70 Denier) or 40 (140 Denier) depending upon the size of the fly.
WING CASE - 1mm white closed-cell foam
BODY - Adams gray super fine dubbing. I used dark gray fly rite (it matched the pattern better)
How to Tie
A VERY SIMPLE TIE. Also try using other super fine colors like caddis green- mahogany brown- rusty brown- pale yellow- BWO just change the thread to a slight contrasting color and the rest of the pattern is the same. You can tie up three dozen in less than one hour.
Beetles belong to the order of insects known as coleoptera, which includes both the aquatic and terrestrial genera. Both genera are on the trout’s menu, but the terrestrial adults are far more significant simply because they’re much more numerous. Some terrestrial adults have elongated bodies with a noticeable separation between their thorax and abdomen, while others have integrated, olive shaped bodies. They range in sizes from 4 to 20 millimeters and sport a variety of colors but most are either dark brown or shiny black. By sheer happenstance, beetles stray into trout streams. Trapped within the surface film, there’s no escape, and the trout seem to know it. Soft rise forms under overhanging tree limbs or along the grassy edge of a stream with no visible insects in sight are a sure sign the trout are after a terrestrial insect. Usually a beetle. This calls for a flush-floating imitation attached to a long section of 6x or 7x tippet and presented with a tuck cast that duplicates the noisy “plop” of a beetle hitting the water.
HOOK - TMC 2302, (can use TMC 200R or MUSTAD C53S - Down eye works best)
THREAD - Black, 6/0
WING CASE - 2mm Black Foam (cut to shape)
BODY - Hareline olive brown ice dub. (I used SLF squirrel dubbing)
LEGS - Larva lace amber super floss.
INDICATOR - Small cut of 2mm foam yellow
EYES - Small black mono eyes (optional on smaller sizes)
HEAD - Wing case extension (cut to shape)
How to Tie
**A fast and easy tie. Now tie up a couple and throw them near the trees and bushes in the water of course but save your best for the next meeting along with how well it fished for you.
This is called an attractor streamer which has a long history both as imitations of tiny fishes and as nonimitative attractor flies. Though it’s quite minnow - like, the double bunny is primarily an attractor. It doesn’t really matter – big trout move for this fly. Try stripping it wildly across a river to stir a trout into doing something stupid. Also try olive over white and olive over yellow for the wing
HOOK - Heavy wire, 4x long, size #2 (I used Mustad #9672 or R74)
THREAD - White 3/0 or heavier
WEIGHT - lead wire 0.035 – inch diameter
BODY AND WING – Magnum (extra – wide) natural gray zonker strip bound atop the shank at the eye and a magnum white zonker strip pushed over thee hooks point and bound below the eye. Cement the strips together around the shank and lead and beyond the bend.
SIDES - A few strands of pearl Krystal flash and silver holographic flashabou
EYES - Red plastic molded eyes with black pupils, 7/32 – inch (7mm) in diameter. (Can use doll eyes – mono eyes –stick on – etc.)
How to Tie
**This is a very nice pattern and very easy to make. You can also try making it in smaller or even larger hooks. Go tie up a bunch and save your best for the fly of the month contest at the next meeting.
TI P = Pull the eraser off a pencil and put it on the hook point to keep from getting poked by the point.
NOTE = If the zonker strips are not thick enough to cover the sides also - you can use white rabbit dubbing to cover the lead and hook shank. Then put the zonkers on the top and bottom.
Since Lee Baermann will be our speaker for this month I thought we should tie up a salt water fly that is easy to alter to suit just about any fishing scenario in which you don’t want the fly to get hung up. So unbind yourself from traditional hooks and designs, and you will find new ways to be creative with your tying.
HOOK - 1/0-2/0 or 3/0 - extra – wide – gap or standard worm hook. Bass Pro #033548004636 2/0, Gamakatsu #58411-25 1/0, Mustad #38105bln 2/0
THREAD - White 6/0 or 8/0 or color to match your pattern tied.
SHAFT - 80 pound hard monofilament (I used Hard Mason brand).
TAIL – White marabou.
FLASH- Pearl halo flash. (I used flashabou mirage opal).
EYES - 3-D or 2-D holographic eyes or flat stick on eyes, which are considerably lighter in weight.
BODY – Pearl crystal chenille or estaz opalescent white,
ADHESIVES - Zap-a-gap, plus Zap-a-gap gel or aquaseal.
How to Tie
**Quite a unique fly and you can change the colors to suit your baitfish pattern of your choice. Get creative. Can also be used as a freshwater fly. Another option is to use a hackle feather on the body to slow down the sink rate or to keep it from sinking you can add foam to the mono to make it float. Go tie up a bunch and save your best for the fly of the month contest at the next meeting.
TIP Pull the eraser off a pencil and put it on the hook point to keep from getting poked by the point.
by Paul Weamer from Fly Fisherman Magazine
Don’t you love the look and fish-catching ability of quill bodied dry flies but hate all the preparation and the results often produce brittle flies that can unravel when they are exposed to a large trout’s sharp teeth. Then here’s your answer to all that quill preparation. Use bucktail instead, it’s more durable and you can mix colors along with thread. To get the right color for your pattern it’s pretty cheap and one tail lasts a long time. You can put some floatant in the wing or don’t put any in at all and as soon as the fly soaks up some water it goes down into the water so you can fish it as an emerger rising to the surface as opposed to an emerger sitting on top of the waters film waiting to dry its wings and fly away. Next time you’re on a massive hatch but you can’t get them on a dry use an emerger pattern like this and you may have that twenty or thirty fish a day you dream about all the time.
Hook- #12-14 Tiemco 247 (fine-wire scud hook)
Thread- Light olive 8/0 uni- thread
Shuck- dark brown darlon (Antron or z-lon also work)
Abdomen- four pink and two tan bucktail fibers twisted with light olive thread.
Thorax- Hendrickson pink beaver dubbing.
Wing- A clump of snowshoe rabbit’s foot hair.
*Note- For the wing I used natural rabbit that had a lot of white and I mixed it with sulphur orange super fine to get the dirty white/yellowish color (pale yellow)
How to Tie
VERY EASY TIE Now tie up a couple dozen but save your best for the fly of the month for may any questions call or e-mail carl wuebben